Post by daz28 on Oct 30, 2013 0:48:09 GMT
Original post by Dave millsd3
Folks, been meaning to do this for a while. I'm fortunate enough to have a few sets now to use as reference so thought I'd use a bright day to take some photos.
Before I start, the 40th belts are good, some colours better than others so it will pay to be careful. The difficulty is that the belts are made from "Bias Binding or Bias Tape" which is fabric cut on the bias (45 degrees) so it flexes and bends easily without fraying, used normally for edging or making quilts. You can buy bias binding in a multitude of colours pretty easily. Essentially it's a length of fabric with each long edge turned in 1/6 of the width then the whole thing folded in half lengthways.
So here's my guide, my opinions only and happy for anyone to add to it.
For all belts, the rule of thumb is look at thickness, width, texture, stitch length, colour and then hold it up to the light (sunny day works well)
Thickness and texture - Vintage belts are made from a thicker, courser fabric in general, in some colours the weave is more pronounced than others, orange and brown in particular. Look for a diagonal weave at about 45% rather than a horizontal criss cross. Look at the end of the belts, 40th are very thin where there are only two layers of fabric, really noticeable between your thumb and finger.
Width - Vintage bias tape was cut and folded in imperial widths, means the finished belt is about 11mm whereas 40th is 10mm. A small but noticeable difference. Having said that, remember that fabric can move through a sewing machine and tolerances vary so use width as one of the indicators (not the only one, one of my vintage black belts measures width 10mm) Vintage bias tape is generally folded further than 1/6 of the width so there isn't so much of a pronounced ridge at the centre of the belt and the whole thing feels thicker.
Stitch Length - in general, vintage outfits and the belts have a long stitch setting (cheaper/faster manufacture) approx 2mm. Can be an indicator but again, this would have been a manual setting and may vary - the cotton thread itself can be a little thicker too.
Colour - some better than others. Blue, Black, Brown really good, 40th yellow has a golden tinge rather than a more lemon yellow. Vintage orange is a more bright goldeny orange (if there is such a thing)
Hold it up to the light - this works well aside from white. You will be able to see through half the belt on 40th from the centre stitch to the edge, more pronounced on lighter colours, harder to see on black but can be done. With white, the vintage belt also lets some light through although not as much as 40th.
I found my 40th belts and my vintage belts vary in length slightly.
Dave
Folks, been meaning to do this for a while. I'm fortunate enough to have a few sets now to use as reference so thought I'd use a bright day to take some photos.
Before I start, the 40th belts are good, some colours better than others so it will pay to be careful. The difficulty is that the belts are made from "Bias Binding or Bias Tape" which is fabric cut on the bias (45 degrees) so it flexes and bends easily without fraying, used normally for edging or making quilts. You can buy bias binding in a multitude of colours pretty easily. Essentially it's a length of fabric with each long edge turned in 1/6 of the width then the whole thing folded in half lengthways.
So here's my guide, my opinions only and happy for anyone to add to it.
For all belts, the rule of thumb is look at thickness, width, texture, stitch length, colour and then hold it up to the light (sunny day works well)
Thickness and texture - Vintage belts are made from a thicker, courser fabric in general, in some colours the weave is more pronounced than others, orange and brown in particular. Look for a diagonal weave at about 45% rather than a horizontal criss cross. Look at the end of the belts, 40th are very thin where there are only two layers of fabric, really noticeable between your thumb and finger.
Width - Vintage bias tape was cut and folded in imperial widths, means the finished belt is about 11mm whereas 40th is 10mm. A small but noticeable difference. Having said that, remember that fabric can move through a sewing machine and tolerances vary so use width as one of the indicators (not the only one, one of my vintage black belts measures width 10mm) Vintage bias tape is generally folded further than 1/6 of the width so there isn't so much of a pronounced ridge at the centre of the belt and the whole thing feels thicker.
Stitch Length - in general, vintage outfits and the belts have a long stitch setting (cheaper/faster manufacture) approx 2mm. Can be an indicator but again, this would have been a manual setting and may vary - the cotton thread itself can be a little thicker too.
Colour - some better than others. Blue, Black, Brown really good, 40th yellow has a golden tinge rather than a more lemon yellow. Vintage orange is a more bright goldeny orange (if there is such a thing)
Hold it up to the light - this works well aside from white. You will be able to see through half the belt on 40th from the centre stitch to the edge, more pronounced on lighter colours, harder to see on black but can be done. With white, the vintage belt also lets some light through although not as much as 40th.
I found my 40th belts and my vintage belts vary in length slightly.
Dave